A river valley wedged between the Hindu Kush and the Karakoram, under the 7,708 m summit of Tirich Mir — with a fort in the town, polo at 3,700 metres, and a culture in the side valleys unlike anywhere else in Pakistan.
We are in the middle of Chitral town, so the fort, the bazaar and the river are a short walk away, and the valleys are a morning's drive. Our drivers know every one of these roads, and our guides can come with you.
01
The royal fort of the Katur dynasty, on the river beside the Shahi Mosque.
02
Bumburet, Rumbur and Birir — the valleys of the Kalash people.
03
The highest polo ground on earth at 3,700 m, and its July tournament.
04
Alpine meadows, pine forest and the best place to spot markhor.
05
Orchards and terraced fields, the gateway on the road to Kalash.
06
Villages, the Qaqlasht meadow and the road north to Mastuj.
Three times a year the valleys fill up. If you are planning a trip around one of these, book early — rooms in Chitral go quickly in festival weeks.
Mid May
The Kalash spring festival. Four days of drumming, dancing and dressing in the valley's embroidered black robes and cowrie headdresses, to welcome the new season and bless the herds before they go up to the summer pastures.
Bumburet & Rumbur
Early July
Chitral against Gilgit on the highest polo ground in the world, played free-style with almost no rules, at 3,700 metres. The whole plateau becomes a camp for the week, with music and folk dancing between the matches.
Shandur Pass
Late March
Spring on the great meadow above Booni, with horse racing, polo, tug of war and folk music. Less known than Shandur and all the better for it — this is Upper Chitral celebrating the end of winter.
Qaqlasht, Booni
The fort sits on the bank of the Chitral River in the middle of town, next to the Shahi Mosque with its white domes. Its carved gateways and wooden balconies have stood through the whole history of the Katur rulers, and the river runs right beneath the walls.
Around it is the bazaar — dried apricots, walnuts, Chitrali caps and pattu wool cloth, and tea shops that stay open late. It is close enough to walk to from the guesthouse, and a good first afternoon if you have just flown in.
Ask us about a guide
Bumburet, Rumbur and Birir are home to the Kalash — a community with its own language, dress, religion and calendar of festivals, living in wooden houses stacked up the valley sides among walnut and mulberry trees.
The road turns off at Ayun and climbs into the side valleys on a track cut into the cliff. It makes a full day out. We can arrange the vehicle, a guide and the permits.
At roughly 3,700 metres, Shandur holds the highest polo ground in the world. Every July, teams from Chitral and Gilgit meet there for a free-style tournament played the old way, with the whole plain turned into a camp of tents, music and horses.
The pass is open in the warm months only, and the drive is long — start early. Outside festival week it is an empty green plateau with lakes and grazing horses, which is arguably better.
Plan a Shandur trip
Just west of town: pine forest, high meadows and the country's best-known markhor population. Mornings and evenings are when the animals move, so go early.
Forty-five minutes south, where the Kalash road turns off. Orchards, walnut trees and terraced fields along the river — a good short outing on its own.
North along the river towards Mastuj and the high passes, past the Qaqlasht meadow. Snow-covered villages in winter and apricot blossom in spring.
Every season here looks like a different country. Here is roughly what to expect.
Apricot and cherry blossom through the valleys, rivers running high, Qaqlasht in late March and Chilam Joshi in Kalash in May.
All the high passes open, Shandur polo in July, long clear days and the busiest season of the year.
Poplars turning gold, the fruit harvest, cool nights and the clearest mountain views of the year.
Deep snow, quiet villages, the Chowmos festival in Kalash, and hot water waiting when you get back.